{"id":15813,"date":"2025-12-06T23:10:29","date_gmt":"2025-12-06T23:10:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sandonspaldingstaging.com\/DirtDr\/library\/sick-tree-treatment-updates\/"},"modified":"2025-12-06T23:10:32","modified_gmt":"2025-12-06T23:10:32","slug":"sick-tree-treatment-updates","status":"publish","type":"library","link":"https:\/\/sandonspaldingstaging.com\/DirtDr\/library\/sick-tree-treatment-updates\/","title":{"rendered":"Sick Tree Treatment Updates"},"content":{"rendered":"

<\/p>\n

\n
\n

Dallas Morning News – May 22, 2019<\/span><\/strong><\/h2>\n

Sick Tree Treatment Updates<\/span><\/h1>\n

\nThe solution to most all tree problems \u2013 other woody plants too \u2013 even the most serious ones, is the Sick Tree Treatment. Although I talk about and recommend this solution often, there is often a bit of confusion about the details. Let me fill in some of the cracks in the treatment explanation to hopefully make things a bit clearer. <\/p>\n

\nFirst, the Sick Tree Treatment is not a product \u2013 it is a procedure. The expanded details are explained in my books and on dirtdoctor.com but the formula is basically this: stop using the synthetic products, expose the base of the plant (the flare), aerate the root zone physically or with hydrogen peroxide, apply the organic amendments we use for bed preparation (compost, rock minerals and sugars), spray the soil and drench the root zone with Garrett Juice and treat any damaged bark tissue with the Tree Trunk Goop (equal amounts of compost, Azomite and water).\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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\n\t\t\tExpose the base of the woody plant (the flare)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

\nEven with all that, questions still arise – so here are some footnotes to add to my recently updated Sick Tree Treatment 2019. <\/p>\n

\nThe Sick Tree Treatment can be repeated, but in most cases when done thoroughly and correctly, one treatment is enough to relieve the stress in the plant by dramatically improving the health of the soil in the root zone. Repeated applications usually would be a waste of money. If the soil is extremely bad – heavy clay, sugar sand, contaminated, seriously compacted, etc. additional applications may be needed and would create no horticultural problems.\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
\n\t\t\tLava sand and dry molasses <\/td>\n		\"\"
\n\t\t\tWhole ground cornmeal<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

\nThe area of application is the root zone of the plant. That\u2019s basically from about halfway between the trunk and drip line out to about twice the width of the drip line area. For most residential lots this means treating the entire property, which of course would help all the other plants as well as the tree being treated.<\/p>\n

\nThe order of product application is unimportant and if more convenient, products can all be mixed together before application. One warning. Cornmeal mixed with the other products and left in bags or even in a truck for more than about an hour or so will create such furious microbial activity that a terrific odor will be created. The neighbors will not be happy with you. Mixing it together with the other products and applying it right away is not problem.\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
\n\t\t\tSeveral inches of soil may need to be removed <\/td>\n		\"\"
\n\t\t\tHealthy root flare exposed<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

\nAnd finally. All the steps do not have to be made a one time. They can be done one step at a time as the schedule and budget dictate. It is truly amazing how quickly and how effectively this method works. Give a shot.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n

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